La Belle Katchina, 5.10b
FA: Todd Gordon et. al.

Getting to the route and gear beta:
submitted by Russ, pics by Will

This route is in the corridor behind the Hall of Horrors and before the Buckets to Burbank formation. Walk from the parking area around the right side of the Hall of Horrors. As you get to the next formation out there, start going left into a corridor. It faces sorta North and is on the left hand wall as you walk into the corridor. Can't miss it....

Gear:
Maybe a 6" piece for the start, but you can get by with a fist sized piece or two, then a hand sized piece and perhaps a 2" cam for near the top. Belay takes a 3" to 3.5" cam.


Additional notes and strategy:

The rock is pretty good quality low down, but gets pretty bad higher up if you venture anywhere outside the crack. There are some ricecake flakes just above the "V" that are so fragile, that both Will and myself busted off full handfuls with a mere touch for balance. All in all this will be a great route after about 80 more ascents. By our count, that is only like 78 more to go before it gets some stars.

Belay on the small ledge at the top, and then do a short scramble up to the real summit to descend to climbers left. Easy walk off, no fixed anchors.

If you have any additional info, comments, or pictures of this route, click here to post them on the Forum.


info@WideFetish.com